Utrecht and the Festival of Early Music

A beautiful late summer day, a city packed with people enjoying the sun, the shops, the restaurants and music. Everywhere groups of musicians are playing on street corners, in squares and in churches. The flower market along the canal is very busy, bikes parked wherever there are railings or lampposts to secure them to. This is Holland after all.

The Early Music Festival is an annual 10-day event in Utrecht, an old city in the very heart of Holland with a compact centre and a very rich history. With its many churches, former convents and monasteries, and its University buildings, it is the perfect place for a festival.  For years I have intended to take part in it, but somehow or other it never happened. It is very close to the annual week of singing evensong in a cathedral in England, which is always in August. By the time I am back home and realize the festival is going to take place, it is already over or tickets are sold out. This year I decided that whatever happened, I would go to at least one of the concerts. One of the reasons also being that the theme this year is “England, my England”, English music from Henry VIII till George III. It is centred around the music of Purcell and Händel and well known as well as lesser known but equally interesting composers around them: William Byrd, John Blow, Thomas Tallis, Thomas Morley, John Bull, William Boyce and Francesco Maria Veracini to mention a few of them. The tickets for the concerts of my first choice were all gone, unfortunately, but there was still a lot to choose from. So on Saturday I took a train to Utrecht to enjoy the city, steep myself in music and at last experience the festival. 

Before my first concert while enjoying a coffee I enjoyed a performance of the Newcastle Kingsmen, a group of “rapper dancers”. They performed their intricate dances in the square under the Dom Tower, surrounded by packed sidewalks cafes, myself among the crowd. The group of men reminded me of Morris dancers.

 The Geertekerk and its pipe organ

 I was too far at the back to take a reasonble picture

My first concert was in the Geertekerk, an old church along the former city walls which are now attractive and leafy parks. The small church was completely sold out, and being late ordering tickets I was seated at the very end of the choir, so my pictures are rather blurred and of poor quality. A small ensemble, Ensemble Corda, played symphonies by William Boyce and Veracini whom I had never heard of I must admit. Being at the very back, the sound was a bit weak. Still I enjoyed the music. Seeing musicians perform is always so much nicer than recorded music.

 "Vredenburg", the concert hall, and Vox Luminis 

But the best part was the evening concert in the rather recently rebuilt concert hall, which can accommodate and audience of 2000 people I was told, and was almost completely full. This was a concert by Vox Luminis, a group of international singers who got to know each other while studying at the Royal Conservatory in The Hague, which is famous for its early music and attracts music students from all over the world. Some of the singers in our own church choir have been students there and also take part in the festival, not necessarily singing but playing historic instruments.

Vox Luminis was accompanied by an assortment of instrumentalists. The ensemble has been praised for its seamless blend of high quality individual voices, exquisite tuning and clarity of sound. They performed Purcell’s funeral sentences, and before the interval music for the coronation of James II as well as anthems by John Blow also celebrating the coronation of James ii.  But especially the funeral anthems were awe inspiring. The singing was superb, and full of emotion.  It sent shivers down my spine. The audience was completely and utterly silent as if there was no audience. I know the music well, but this was so beautifully rendered, I just want to go back and hear them again and again. After the last note had died away people remained silent for what seemed a very long time before applauding. Any sound from the audience seemed sacrilege. It was an experience I will never forget.

The night was balmy when I walked back to the station, the latter an utter mess as they seem to renovate it. I did not get back home till midnight, but it was worth the effort and every penny.

The festival book, a tome of some 380 pages contains not only the full 10-day programme but also a lot of background information. I am looking forward to the last concert I could get tickets for, the final concert, which will be only music by Thomas Tallis, including anthems I have sung with one of the choirs. It will be a real treat.

The theme for the festival differs each year. This year is of course special for me, as with the two choirs I sing Anglican church music, which is mainly music by English composers. Having read English at University and having many friends in England makes it very special indeed. The theme next year will be Venice, just as interesting and something to look forward to, but first I’ll try to attend a few more concerts this week, if possible.