A beautiful late summer day, a city packed with people enjoying
the sun, the shops, the restaurants and music. Everywhere groups of musicians are
playing on street corners, in squares and in churches. The flower market along
the canal is very busy, bikes parked wherever there are railings or lampposts to
secure them to. This is Holland after all.
The Early Music
Festival is an annual 10-day event in Utrecht, an old city in the very heart
of Holland with a compact centre and a very rich history. With its many churches,
former convents and monasteries, and its University buildings, it is the perfect
place for a festival. For years I have
intended to take part in it, but somehow or other it never happened. It is very
close to the annual week of singing evensong in a cathedral in England, which
is always in August. By the time I am back home and realize the festival is
going to take place, it is already over or tickets are sold out. This year I
decided that whatever happened, I would go to at least one of the concerts. One
of the reasons also being that the theme this year is “England, my England”, English
music from Henry VIII till George III. It is centred around the music of Purcell and Händel and well
known as well as lesser known but equally interesting composers around them: William
Byrd, John Blow, Thomas Tallis, Thomas Morley, John Bull, William Boyce and Francesco Maria Veracini
to mention a few of them. The tickets for the concerts of my first choice were all
gone, unfortunately, but there was still a lot to choose from. So on Saturday I
took a train to Utrecht to enjoy the city, steep myself in music and at last
experience the festival.
Before my first concert while enjoying a coffee I
enjoyed a performance of the Newcastle
Kingsmen, a group of “rapper dancers”. They performed their intricate
dances in the square under the Dom Tower, surrounded by packed sidewalks cafes,
myself among the crowd. The group of men reminded me of Morris dancers.
The Geertekerk and its pipe organ
I was too far at the back to take a reasonble picture
My first concert was in the Geertekerk, an old church along
the former city walls which are now attractive and leafy parks. The small
church was completely sold out, and being late ordering tickets I was seated at
the very end of the choir, so my pictures are rather blurred and of poor quality.
A small ensemble, Ensemble Corda, played symphonies by William Boyce and Veracini
whom I had never heard of I must admit. Being at the very back, the sound was a
bit weak. Still I enjoyed the music. Seeing musicians perform is always so much
nicer than recorded music.
"Vredenburg", the concert hall, and Vox Luminis
But the best part was the evening concert in the rather recently
rebuilt concert hall, which can accommodate and audience of 2000 people I was told, and was almost completely full. This was a concert by Vox Luminis, a group
of international singers who got to know each other while studying at the Royal Conservatory
in The Hague, which is famous for its early music and attracts music students
from all over the world. Some of the singers in our own church choir have been students
there and also take part in the festival, not necessarily singing but playing
historic instruments.
Vox Luminis was
accompanied by an assortment of instrumentalists. The
ensemble has been praised for its seamless blend of high quality individual
voices, exquisite tuning and clarity of sound. They performed Purcell’s
funeral sentences, and before the interval music for the coronation of James II
as well as anthems by John Blow also celebrating the coronation of James
ii. But especially the funeral anthems
were awe inspiring. The singing was superb, and full of emotion. It sent shivers down my spine. The audience
was completely and utterly silent as if there was no audience. I know the music
well, but this was so beautifully rendered, I just want to go back and hear
them again and again. After the last note had died away people remained silent
for what seemed a very long time before applauding. Any sound from the audience
seemed sacrilege. It was an experience I will never forget.
The night was balmy when I walked back to the station, the
latter an utter mess as they seem to renovate it. I did not get back home till
midnight, but it was worth the effort and every penny.
The festival book, a tome of some 380 pages contains not
only the full 10-day programme but also a lot of background information. I am
looking forward to the last concert I could get tickets for, the final concert,
which will be only music by Thomas Tallis, including anthems I have sung with one
of the choirs. It will be a real treat.
The theme for the festival differs each year. This year is
of course special for me, as with the two choirs I sing Anglican church music,
which is mainly music by English composers. Having read English at University and
having many friends in England makes it very special indeed. The theme next
year will be Venice, just as interesting and something to look forward to, but
first I’ll try to attend a few more concerts this week, if possible.
