Wednesday 19 October 2016

Venice

Everybody knows Venice, the Canal Grande, the San Marco, the gondolas. That is the Venice most tourists know, and it is beautiful. I could talk about that, but many have already done so. What struck me most in Venice were other things, in fact the everyday life of the Venetians.
"my" vaporetto stop
I stayed in Venice for three weeks, taking courses in art and architecture and the Italian language. Staying in a residential area, I enjoyed seeing “normal” life. 
A woman tending her plants
People live there, work there, children go to school, young parents accompanying their children. It was a joy to be up early, walk to the vaporetto stop, take a cafe standing at the bar while waiting for the vaporetto, meeting the same people every morning and greeting them. The barman had once worked in Amsterdam, he told me, and knew a few Dutch words, mainly greetings.
A gathering of monks in the evening, so a bit unfocussed (the picture, not the monks!)
There was the Hungarian monk who took the same route I did as he also was studying Italian, living in the same monastery, but of course in a different part, not in the wing where I stayed which served as a hostel. The skies are very bright and clear in the morning, even on a dull day. For the skies are wide over the laguna, the vistas amazing. After crossing the Giudecca Canal, walking through Dorsoduro on my way to school I enjoyed seeing the frantic activity of each working day: the hand pulled iron carts in which the rubbish was collected daily. These in turn were emptied via an ingenious system into barges waiting along the canals. 
Perhaps difficult to see, but a small cart with rubbish is lifted on this barge to be emaptied
In my first week, the plastic bags with rubbish were hanging from nails in the walls of the houses. Later that changed, as the gulls had found a way to swoop towards the bags and rip them apart.  To prevent litter and rats, it was no longer allowed to hang the rubbish out. There still was a collection every day, but I did not quite grasp how it worked.
 A few pictures of this small floating market

Every morning I passed a barge with brightly coloured fruit and vegetables, a floating greengrocer’s. Next to it a barge with cyclamen, apparently the house plant of the season. Bakeries, shops selling hardware, every shop was stocked from the water. And if they could not be reached that way, goods were loaded on luggage trolleys and taken by porters to the various shops and houses, across the numerous bridges which are really stairs. It all seemed very efficiently done.
 Above: The place where trucks and vans unload their goods to be further transported by boat through Venice
 Early morning at Giudecca, unloading a boat on a cart for further transport.
The beautiful view of Zattere  from Giudecca across the "Canale della Giudecca"
Everybody was on foot, if not in a boat on one of the canals. Only the children used a means of transport as they often raced around on small scooters. I pitied the many young mums who had to carry their buggies across those bridges; I suppose one gets used to it.
 Even a bride and her high heeled guests had to cross a few bridges to get from their hotel to the Church of Redentore
In the evening, after school and before the evening meal, children played on the campos, the many squares, a very safe place to be, laughing and running, chasing pigeons and seagulls. The slim young mothers would watch them, gossiping or just exchanging news. By that time most tourists would have disappeared and gone back to their hotels or the big cruise ships in port.
 The busy canal in front of the house where I rented a room the third week of my stay, seen from the kitchen window. Often barges and gondolas too would cross this canal
Of course I was a tourist too, but for a short time taking part in the everyday life of this amazing city, I felt one with the Venetians.
Work in progress, just taking a break!
Enjoying a quiet evening on the Fondamenta San Giacomo, Giudecca
 Children playing on the campos, and mothers enjoying the late afternoon sun

Thursday 4 August 2016

Kampen

Kampen is one of the former Hanseatic towns on the river IJssel, and formerly on the “Zuiderzee”, the open sea, part of the North Sea. It has a famous church, the Bovenkerk,  with an even better-known pipe organ. As I wanted to attend an organ recital in the evening, one in a series of many by my organist friend, all in celebration of his 60th anniversary as a musician, I decided to go earlier and explore Kampen. It is a rather sleepy town nowadays. It is no longer on open water, except the river, and fishing is a thing of the past. It used to house two theological colleges in the 20th century, but since they were integrated in universities elsewhere, the students have gone and with them the liveliness. However, this small town or even city boasts of three city gates, it is surrounded by water, the river on one side, moats and parks on the other side, the parks on the former city walls. Besides, its position on the river is very attractive. The view of Kampen has been painted and photographed many times.
 An old "Kogge"ship, a replica of a ship found in the former "Zuiderzee" from the time that Kampen still was a fishing town. 
Apart from the Bovenkerk determining the skyline, it has many churches, some of them once the chapels of monasteries and nunneries. But that of course is a long time ago, before the Reformation. 
  
 The "Buitenkerk", quite at the other end of Kampen. A Roman Catholic Church which also has a well known organ, built by the famous Hinsz. However, it is in a poor state and has to be repaired.
When I set out exploring, it was overcast but warm and dry. Unfortunately that changed in the course of the afternoon, so I did not cross the river to admire the skyline of Kampen on the opposite side of the river. It was too wet and too windy. I had lunch and coffee in a very attractive lunchroom, a Jugendstil building.
 Another view of the "Buitenkerk".
 The Jugendstil Bakery and lunchroom next to the tower. A slanted view as there was no space to take it from another angle.

And surprisingly there is an Icon Museum in Kampen which houses a collection worth seeing.  The houses in town all date from different periods. The narrow alleys, and the one long canal which dissects the length of the town, are worth seeing if one has an eye for picturesque scenes like that.
 The tower from another perspective
... and with a cow hanging from the tower! This goes back to an anecdote referring to the supposed stupidity of the inhabitants of Kampen.
 The Icon Museum
I had some trouble finding an attractive low key restaurant, but hit the right one, for my garlic prawns were absolutely delicious and beautifully presented, so the longish wait for them was worth it.
 The Bovenkerk, seen from an alley with an old house, and from the square around it, the Mint Square, which explains the small statue in front of the church
There are several nice small sculptures all around Kampen. 
 Left: in front of one of the three city gates, right: on the river IJssel 
In front of another city gate
I got to the church half an hour before the beginning of the recital, and so had a chance to have a look at  the organ loft and the organ console with all the different stops.  Quite complicated to be an organ assistant as it is not easy to remember the exact position of the stops and the corresponding manuals in just a short time before the concert. It can be a nightmare sometimes as I remember from the years I used to pull stops and turn pages.
I enjoyed the recital enormously. 
The organ is famous for its absolutely fantastic sound quality. It has many possibilities, but whatever registration is chosen, the sound is always “cantabile”, melodious. Never shrill or harsh or dry. The French composers BoĆ«llmann and Guilmant sounded most impressive and romantic on this organ. I had to close my eyes to really let the music do its job, even missing the view of the gorgeous organ front for that.

 left: the organ in the choir or chancel.              right, the decorated roof
I left Kampen at 10 pm. Unfortunately I had not booked a hotel or B&B and it took me almost two hours to drive home in ghastly weather and initially on narrow and very dark country roads. I should have chosen a different route, but once on this route there was no turning back. Anyway, I made it and felt very happy about the day in spite of the unpleasant weather. For an old town, two fantastic churches, golden Icons, and to top it all a very enjoyable organ recital on a splendid pipe organ, all that made my day.
 Some interesting houses
 
 One of the gates seen from the river and from the square round the Bovenkerk
A picturesque alley
 Old adverts painted on the walls

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