I did not know Middelburg very well, in fact not at all. I once passed through it as a child, and some 10 years ago I was the assistant at an organ recital given by an organist friend. But since we spent most of the day practising, the only thing I remember is the beauty of the church and in particular of the organ and the organ case, as well as the meal we shared on a sunny terrace in the Market Square. I then promised myself to go back one day, which I hadn't done till now. Middelburg is an old town, on one of the former islands of Zeeland, now no longer islands as they are connected by dams with the mainland. In former times it took a long time to go from there to Rotterdam, by bus, tram, ferry etc. A friend at University told me that when she was a child they would make a trip to Rotterdam twice a year, to buy winter and summer clothes. They would have to get up at six o' clock in the morning to get there and back home in time. When she lived in Leiden she still used to buy two dozen pairs of tights at the beginning of the season, and her whole winter or summer wardrobe, whereas the shops were round the corner: the habit of a lifetime, I suppose.
The heart of Middelburg was more or less destroyed during World War II, and the centre with the old Abbey was rebuilt. It is indeed beautifully rebuilt and restored, but what I found far more interesting were the old warehouses and merchant quarters, which date back to the time when Middelburg still had a good open connection to the sea and was important as a trade centre. The beautiful and spacious houses along the quays testify to that former glory. Most house have names, painted in ornamental characters over the doors. Many of the windows over the doors have a gilded rose in the middle, apparently the trade mark of Middelburg. The VOC (the Dutch East India Company) had an office here on the quayside, The big canon in front protected the harbour of Middelburg, at that time in open connection with the North Sea. Their gable stone is the oldest logo ever used in the world! There is also the picturesque Kuiperspoort, a very narrow alley lined by houses which might have been used as breweries or casket workshops, apart from warehouses. Through the alley the caskets could easily be rolled down to the quay side.
In the Market Square fresh fish, local cheeses, and all sorts of local produce is sold. The terraces lining the market square are most inviting and we can't resist them. It is lovely to watch the people and enjoy a drink while having a view of the lively market as well as the beautiful town hall. Next time I'll book a tour! But for now we just try to absorb the atmosphere of the place. One day isn't enough to see the museums or the interior of any of the historical houses. And so I and a friend who boarded the train in Rotterdam, just wander around, enjoy the sun, admire the lovely houses at a time of year when Middelburg is still relatively quiet and not yet inundated by tourists with pleasure boats.
After a poor pizza in an Italian restaurant near the attractive and relatively large fish market, we wind our way back to the station. As we have time to spare – there is a connection to Rotterdam and Leiden every hour - , we also have a look in the library: a modern building with an amazing collection of books and cd's, and with very good facilities. It does not just serve Middelburg, but has a regional function.
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