The Anglican Pro Cathedral in Valletta |
Apart from two concerts and two services we had time to explore a
bit of Malta, or at least of Valletta and surroundings, and also enjoyed a full
day excursion to Gozo.
An old street in Victoria, the capital of Gozo |
Cacti in Gozo |
The wild and rocky northern coast of Gozo |
It was a
wonderful mini vacation. Malta is too bare and too built up for my liking, but
being there a as choir member is a different experience. I am only sorry I did
not see all of the island, and so missed the most interesting part, the former
capital Mdina and the south
coast which is more authentic than the north with its many tourist hotels and
apartments.
The organ in the church of St. Paul, Valletta |
A typical street in Valletta |
Global warming
hasn't meant anything yet to us this year. We have had some very hot summer
days, but the temperature has dropped considerably, by some 15 degrees Celsius
compared to last weekend, and it is wet, miserable and very chilly indeed. Why
did I put away that nice warm coat? Or switch off the central heating?
Yesterday
was Pipe organ day in Leiden. The town boasts many beautiful historic organs,
and once a year a tour is organised with free 30-minute recitals on six different
locations, five of them churches and the other one in the local concert hall.
It was a busy day, and I had many obligations but managed to go at least to two
concerts in the morning, in two remarkable churches, the well-known Pieterskerk
in the centre of Leiden, frequented once by the Pilgrim Fathers, and the
Lodewijkskerk, a Roman Catholic church hidden behind a nondescript front. Once
inside the interior is unexpectedly light. The organ is remarkable and can be
played from two consoles on two different levels. The church was completely
destroyed when a ship full of gunpowder exploded and reduced a large area of
Leiden to rubble. Lodewijk Napoleon, then
ruling the provinces, stimulated the rebuilding of the church, hence the name.
On 12 January 1807, a catastrophe struck the city when a boat loaded with
17,400 kg of gunpowder blew up in the middle of Leiden. 151 persons were
killed, over 2000 were injured and some 220 homes were destroyed. King Louis
Bonaparte personally visited the city to provide assistance to the victims. Although
located in the center of the city, the area destroyed remained empty for many
years. In 1886 the space was turned into a public park (Wikipedia)
The Dutch entry gives
more detailed information about the catastrophe.
Pipe organ of the Pieterskerk, nestling against the west wall. |
The
excitement of an "organ tour" is that the organs were built in
different periods by a variety of organ builders. One organ may be perfect for
baroque music, another one for French romantic music, or English music. The organists
involved try to show the character and sound of each pipe organ by their choice
of programme.
Pipe organ of the RC Lodewijkskerk |
I did not
have time to attend the afternoon programme as well, alas, and I did not have
much time for lunch either. So instead of finding a nice cafe for coffee and
lunch along the Rhine opposite the busy market stalls, cafes which would be
absolutely packed with people, I went to a spot unknown to most tourists, the
tea garden of the Hortus Botanicus, which is hidden behind the ancient Academy
building, away from the main stream of tourists. Its walled tea garden is an
oasis of quiet and rest. Basking in the sun, sheltered from the chilly wind,
admiring the espalier fruit trees against the brick walls, enjoying a strong coffee and a piece of delicious lemon
cake, I fortified myself for the long walk back, along the mooring place of the
historic ships and the Rembrandt windmill. So far for my good intentions to put
myself on a strict diet.
Historic ships and Rembrandt mill in Leyden, Galgewater |
In the afternoon
I went to the birthday party of a dear niece of mine, only to hurry on after a
few hours to a buffet party for all the volunteers of the Cultural Institute of
which I am a board member. I had to say no to a house concert I was invited to,
to a special organ recital in the north of Holland and to the afternoon outing
with the other volunteers. Pity things always come in droves. I wish I could
spread out those events, so that there would be no more empty days.
Yesterday
it was cold, but dry and sunny, today it is wet, very chilly and miserable.
Even my choir robe made of artificial fibre and usually too hot, left me
shivering. Will summer ever come? We can only hope and wait. My magnificent
roses, covering the wall completely with a feast of purple and pink colours,
hang their heads heavy with rain. The roses growing across the pergola let go
of their pale pink petals prematurely. But the plants in the newly created
border are doing well, together with the weeds! Some work for me once it stops
raining.
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