Paris Day Two

Paris, day 2

I woke early as the walls of the hotel seemed to be made of cardboard.

I had made plans for visits to museums should the weather be poor. But the sky was blue and it was sunny although still cool, so I went for a long walk along places I hadn't been to before and which are slightly off the beaten track. Before reaching the Place de la Bastille, I looked into many courtyards where artisans and woodworkers were busy plying their trade. The alleyway called Passage de Chantiers was, apart from colourful, a haven of furniture makers, antique furniture shops as well as modern design shops. And this was not the only pleasantly surprising and hidden "passage" in this area, which apparently has been famous since the 17^th century for its craft guilds and woodworkers.

Two "passages"

From the Bastille I walked along the Port de l'Arsenal, the end of the Canal St. Martin, opening into the river Seine. Below the busy Boulevard de Bastille and above the quays along the canal where many colourful ships are moored, there is a very nice park with rose gardens, benches and other places to sit, a narrow but attractive green belt where locals were walking and reading – and cuddling of course.

A Keith Haring fan?

The rose garden

Crossing the river Seine via the Pont d'Austerlitz, I then went into the Jardin des Plantes, a very pleasant surprise. Leafy avenues border the wide middle sections with thousands of labelled plants, from all over the world, medicinal ones, edible ones, decorative ones, aquatic plants in nicely symmetrical ponds, it is all there with the stately buildings of the Musee National d'Histoire Naturelle at the end. Besides there is a small zoo – a "menagerie" - and there are large playgrounds for children. There were many groups of schoolchildren in the gardens with their teachers and/or carers, nursery classes and primary school children, playing, enjoying the fresh air and having picnics in the park, all still dressed in their winter anoraks and jackets. There is a variety of gardens, also a very well designed alpine garden, on a lower level and sheltered by rocky walls. At the end of the "Jardin" the Museum of Natural History has large greenhouses with exotic tropical plants and palms. 

Jardin du Luxembourg. Below, a corner of the alpine garden

It was time for an omelette and a glass of wine in a tiny cafe just outside the park, frequented by locals. Refreshed I walked to the remains of an old 2^nd century Roman amphitheatre, the Arènes de Lutècesurrounded by a park, and busy with office workers having their lunch, complete with bottles of wine, French cheese and  charcuterie, on the stone steps of the amphitheatre, on wooden benches and simply on the grass. Victor Hugo led the campaign for the restoration of the amphitheatre after it had been discovered in 1869. The original theatre could seat 15.000 spectators and it was used for theatrical performances as well as gladiator fights. Apparently the theatre is still used in summer - for plays? concerts? There was a stage, and all the technical paraphernalia coming with outdoor performances had been installed and built up. It was a surprisingly pleasant spot, and I had never heard of it, just spotted it on my map and was curious to see what it was. The stately apartment buildings on the hill around the amphitheatre are built in a crescent. 

Stairs leading up to the amphitheatre,
below: an apartment in the crescent with its own balcony garden

Next stop was the Place de la Contrescarpe , the quiet pedestrian street leading to it approached via stairs, decorated again with pot plants. In one of the big houses in this small street Descartes lived for a few years. A plaque on the wall has to keep his memory alive.

The Place de la Contrescarpe was pleasant, with cafes on each side and trees and a fountain in the middle. Here it was bustling with passing tourists and students, plus locals cycling. Two homeless men were warming themselves in the sun on pieces of cardboard. It must be such an awful life! I had another coffee, and walked on through quieter streets to the Eglise de St. Etienne du Mont, which I try to visit each time I am in Paris. The unusual choir screen amazes me every time again with its beauty of intricate stone work. I have never seen such a choir screen in my life and it is apparently unique in France. I do not know if there are similar screens in other countries. But for me this is of a remarkable and unique beauty. Here is also the gilded shrine for St. Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. Although her tomb was opened and her remains burnt by the municipality of Paris during the Revolution in 1798 and her ashes scattered in the river Seine. So the tomb here is just a token tomb, in honour of her.

One of the windows displayed in the former cloisters

The church also has a beautiful pipe organ, like so many churches in Paris. Unfortunately most organ recitals take place on a Sunday or Saturday, not on a weekday, so I missed out on that. Maurice Durufle was one of the famous organists here. The organ was built in 1631 and is the oldest pipe organ in Paris and still in its original state.

The Pantheon next to the church on the same hill was open this time! I had never been in, so this was the first time I could see the Foucault Pendulum and the tombs of famous Frenchmen in the crypt, among them those of Marie and Pierre Curie, of Voltaire, Corneille and many others. The Pantheon doesn't seem to be on a human scale, it is so vast, high and grand. The pillars outside alone seem too big for me, I felt like Gulliver among the giants.

Although the working of the Pendulum seems to be simple, I did not get the gist of it. And I promised myself to read Umberto Eco's book, which judging by its title, must be all about the pendulum.

The view from the steps outside is fantastic, with the Eiffel Tower in the distance.

Not on a human scale

Next stop was a "papeterie", a joy for me. There are several stationary shops in this student quarter, and they sell the most desirable fountain pens, blank books, special pencils and what not. I could not resist the temptation.

My greed satisfied by a very colourful and unique fountain pen, made in France and not in some distant Asian country, I walked to the Jardin du Luxembourg. It was lovely, and the place was full of people: Locals reading books, tourists, young mums and nannies with small children sailing their boats in the pond. Old couples sitting on the chairs in the shade of the trees or of one of the many statues, enjoying this beautiful day.

Time was getting on, so after a short rest I walked to the St. Sulpice, a gloomy cavernous church in my opinion, but with the most amazing pipe organ. On Sunday there would be an organ recital by Daniel Roth. I am envious of an organist friend of mine who will be there on Sunday and may also be allowed to see the console, and perhaps even play the organ. I once went to a organ recital here, and the sound of this big instrument sent shivers down my spine. It was a romantic French programme, perfectly fit for this instrument. The sound filled the building and resonated. It was an unbelievable experience, which I won't easily forget.

Then a walk through St. Germain des Pres and around the church there, through the narrow streets with small but interesting shops, and on to the Rue de Buci with its colourful street market and its lively shops and small cafes and restaurants. From the well-know "Paul" I watched life passing by, locals and tourists, easily recognisable as such, while enjoying a pot of tea and a "tarte de framboises", the most delicious sweet I had had so far.

Alas, it was time to go back to the hotel to pick up my small case, make my way to the Gare du Nord and buy some food for the train journey back to Holland. My feet hurt, but it had been a very interesting visit which I thoroughly enjoyed.

Au Revoir Place de la Bastille