Amsterdam
may be considered the epitome of a Dutch city with its canals, but I think
Delft beats Amsterdam. I admit it is not half as big, but that may be part of its
charm. There are many canals, and in summer big white lilies float on the water.
Water traffic is limited, so the water lilies can thrive and blossom. On
Saturdays there is an extensive market along the canals, as well as a special
antiques market in the summer months. There is the regular bric-a-brac, but there are also some interesting finds, as well as antiquarian books, old maps
and - it being Delft - , hand painted Dutch tiles, not just the Delft blue ones.
bric-brac-along the canals |
There are cafes and restaurants galore, a flower market, and a market with
fresh produce. The stalls line the canals, in front of book stores and
kitchenware shops. The latter have luxury articles for sale from Scandinavia.
Scandinavian design as an antidote or contrast to the Delft blue perhaps? Among
the real hand painted Delftware are many works of art, but those are far too
expensive to take back as a souvenir.
Behind the New Church |
Saturday
afternoon I enjoyed just roaming around, exploring shops, canals and alleys
which I hadn't seen before. Along some of the canals one finds imposing former
merchant houses and warehouses. Nowadays the big houses are used for student
housing or as offices, and hardly privately owned. The centre is dotted with
cafes and restaurants, not just in the wide market square with its ancient Town
Hall (where one of my brothers got married long ago) and its imposing New Church which houses the graves of the Royal family,
the House of Orange. There are cafes in the old "Waag" the weighing
house, along the canals, and in squares, sometimes on barges used as floating
terraces, and in the square next to the Old Church with its tower slanting like the tower of
Pisa. Both churches have beautiful, big and famous pipe organs and there are
regular organ recitals. I just missed a
lunchtime recital in the New Church.
Bikes, stalls, and a canal |
Delft was home to the famous painter Johannes
Vermeer, whose grave can be found in the Old Church. Don't mix Delft up with the
town pictured in the film "Girl with
a Pearl Earring". The film was shot in Belgium, and not in Delft, as it
was much easier to find a medieval town centre in what used to be the Southern
Netherlands. In Belgium they have not meddled so much with their heritage as we
have in the Netherlands where we seem to replace historic buildings by new ones
– or by parking lots and ring roads.
A door of one of the bigger houses |
Ah, lovely Delft, I remember it weLL. When are you off to England?
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