Day 3, Bad Arolsen

 

After a day of walking, followed by a visit to Willingen, well known for its winter sports, we decided to visit some less touristy places of which there are plenty. Probably because of the connection with our monarchy, we decided to go to Bad Arolsen. Here was a palace to be visited, and an attractive and well laid out town. Bad Arolson was indeed a very pleasant surprise after Willingen with its tourist shops, restaurants and not much else. Willingen is one of those nondescript tourist traps. In winter it might offer a lot to skiers and hikers, but not at the height of summer. It may be a good starting point for walks, once taken up to the highest top by a ski lift. But we had no time for that, neither did we fancy a visit to an overheated glass blowing factory. The main street was rather crowded – and hot! The only pre was an excellent outdoor shop selling walking shoes and boots. The people were very knowledgeable so at last I found a pair of shoes which will serve me to the end of my walking days. We did enjoy our tour back through the hills and along the banks of a reservoir, driving through quiet villages on winding and narrow roads. It was an afternoon well-spent, and a change after our 3,5-hour nature walk in the morning.

Bad Arolson formed a complete contrast to Willingen. It is flat and green, with large parks and shady trees. 

The “Schloss Arolson” is at the extreme East side of the town, opposite the “Grand Avenue”, a green avenue, well sheltered, leading from one end of the town to the very West end.

Schloss Arolsen is the place where Queen Emma grew up, who became the second wife of Dutch King William 5^th, and the mother of Queen Wilhelmina, her only child. Her life in Holland must have been in stark contrast with the spaciousness of her childhood surroundings and home in Bad Arolsen. Although the website of the palace stated otherwise, the palace was closed for visitors except during the weekends, due to Covid-19. A pity, as it looked vast, well laid out and promising. But Thursday is no part of the weekend, alas. 

The town has a very pleasing layout, with blocks of straight and long streets lined with trees, very nice gabled houses, and with an uninterrupted view towards the main church which sits in the middle of a square, the crossing point of two major streets. After exploring the outside of the “Schloss”, we had our usual lunch of “Kaffee und Kuchen” in café Princess Emma. The interior is quite remarkable with a mixture of interesting and highly decorated chairs and sofas. But we sat outside, admiring the baroque gables and doors of the houses, and of course watching the world – a small world - go by. We walked the length of the street, from east to west, admiring the church in the middle. 

The interior of the church. There were several other churches, but we only went into this one, Emma's church

The back of the church

Many houses were worth a closer look. When we traced back our steps, sometimes via back streets, we admired the buildings belonging to the Schloss, which now belong to a hotel group, including the former stables, etc. Those buildings now house a museum, a riding school, the hotel with conference facilities, and some farms. It all looked peaceful and serene. At least now we know where Waldeck Pyrmont is! And where the royal family partly comes from. For of course it wasn’t just Emma, but also Bernhard (von Lippe Biesterfeld) and Claus (von Amsberg), both royal consorts and princes, who came from Germany.

Many buildings are protected

This shop had very modern sewing machines on display (and for sale)

One of the buildings belonging to the "Schloss" which now houses a riding school I believe

Back at the hotel we treated our feet to a soothing walk through the water basins. Being at a Kneipp resort, that was the least we could do, massages and other contact treatments being banned for the time being.