Day 5, Vezelay - Bourges

Vezelay-Bourges

This day is perhaps the highlight for our pilgrim to be. We have discovered where Bernard of Clairvaux addressed the men who were to go on the second crusade to the Holy Land. It wasn't in the abbey church, but in the fields on the hillside below Vezelay, facing the church of Asquins. There we find a wooden cross, a simple chapel, and a small religious community.  

We are on historic ground. A path leads from the church in Asquins via this humble monastery up the hill towards the abbey church of Vezelay. The spot is idyllic. The bustle of Vezelay seems far away. The fields are full of red poppies and yellow wild flowers. The view towards Asquins is glorious. There is no traffic here, and the only sounds are the buzz of bees and the soft humming of a tractor working the fields on the other side of the valley. 

 The small chapel seen from the back and lower down the slopes from the fields

My companion wants to walk the full length of the pilgrim path from Asquins to Vezelay Abbey, but there is not enough time for that so he contends himself with walking up to the abbey church along the steep path while I drive to a car park in Vezelay. We meet in front of the abbey and have a last look at the magnificent abbey church while enjoying a coffee.

 A view towards the small monastery and Vezelay Abbey from the fields

A view of the pilgrim church of Asquins from the small monastery

Walking back through the narrow and sloping street we buy our picnic which we enjoy just outside Vezelay with a view of the abbey church.

Farewell to Vezelay

And then we are off to Bourges. En route we go around Charity-sur-Loire, another medieval town, apparently also part of the pilgrim route. We haven't got the time to explore the town, but after crossing the beautiful old bridge, we stop on the banks of the river Loire to enjoy the view of the town with its fortified walls and big church.

And then it is on towards Bourges. Here the land is not half as exciting, with straight roads and endless undulating fields.

Charity-sur-Loire

The entrance to Bourges is like the entrance to any big town in Europe or the United States, industrial estates and ugly buildings. But we do find the inner city in the end and a parking garage under the Mairie next to the magnificent cathedral. I have never been to Bourges and love the cathedral and the old part of the town with its narrow streets. 

 A narrow street in the historic part of Bourges

A view of the cathedral from one of the narrow lanes

Apparently this is the widest Gothic cathedral in France. The five portals in the west façade are beautifully sculpted, the middle one depicting the Last Judgement. 

 The west front with the five portals

 The main portal and below a detail of the last judgement

Inside the vividly coloured stained-glass windows are truly fascinating, the ones in the choir presented by the guilds. This is just a flying visit, and we do not see anything much of the historic town except for a few lanes and streets around the cathedral. But there is a lot more to see. Another town on my to-do list.

 Bourges

 Below: The windows behind the organ

Details of some of the splendid windows 

The ceiling of one of the side chapels

Via the Visitor Centre we find a exciting B&B just outside Bourges. It looks like a small castle because of the tower in one corner, and has attractive gardens, but is a working farm. They also own vineyards some miles away and their wine is for sale on the premises. One wing of the house is used for guests, as well as the converted former granary. Everything is tastefully decorated, in a very rustic but chic style. There are nooks and crannies with soft plump sofa's, bookshelves and soft reading lights. It would be no punishment to stay here for a few more days. 

 Our B&B in Berry-Bouy just outside Bourges

Alas, dinner is not provided, so instead of having a meal in the old part of Bourges which we should have done before we came here, we have to go to an American style strip with shops and restaurants. However, the food is a lot better. Melon and ham, duck with figs and beans, not the standard American fast food meal fortunately. And certainly not the wine which is always good, followed by strong coffee.

It has been a good day, with among the highlights the fields where Bernard of Clairvaux preached, as well as two perfect examples of roman and gothic architecture.

The poppies at Vezelay