A week of parties and music
It was quite a good and varied week, with lots
of baking, several parties, meetings with friends and sharing meals, with
family and concerts, and walks on the beach – although the northerly wind made
it much colder than expected.
Music
The week began and ended with a concert, both
in monumental Dutch churches.
The first concert was an organ recital on
Wednesday evening in the beautiful Church of St.John in Gouda. As it was still
light, the spectacular stained glass windows showed themselves in their full
glory. The verger or rather custodian of the church, Maurits Tompot, is an
expert in the history and iconography of the windows and gives presentations in
the Netherlands and elsewhere. He briefed us about some lesser visible windows
and pointed out things I might otherwise have missed. Funny, because I have
often visited this big church and admired the windows, but there is always
something new to be seen or noticed.
The big organ in the St.Jan, Gouda
Apart from the improvisation, compositions by
well-known French organists filled the church: Alexandre Guilmant, César
Franck, Camille Saint-Saëns and Léon Boëllmann, all 19th century
Romantic composers. After playing the smaller organ in the choir, the organist
ascended to the big organ over the west door – as far as I know always closed
and only used for special occasions such as weddings. It is a beautiful
instrument, and a joy to look at while listening to the moving compositions
which fitted this grand church. The Suite Gothique by Léon Boëllmann is a very
moving and beautiful composition and my favourite.
Here Marie Claire Alain plays the Suite Gothique on the impressive Cavaillé-Coll
organ of the St. Sulpice in Paris
Of course there is no comparison with German or
French cathedrals. Most big main churches in the Netherlands were turned into
protestant churches after the Reformation, stripping them off their altars,
paintings and statues. They look stark and bare, except for their windows which
were often spared. A pulpit was added in the middle of the nave and the
congregation would face the pulpit, often with their backs to the choir, which
was no longer used. Fortunately in some churches the choir stalls with their
carved misericords escaped destruction. Perhaps because the carvings were not
visible when the seats were turned down? Who knows. Some choirs in big churches
were even closed off and used as church halls for meetings and coffee after the
service. The original idea of the church built in a west-east position, was
lost. However, an empty church draws the attention more to the architecture of
the building, the lines.
Yesterday, a week later, also on a Wednesday, I went to Amsterdam to attend a concert given by a fellow choir member, James Hewitt, and an organist friend of his, Iason Marmaras. James, also a composer, plays the baroque violin brilliantly. His friend accompanied him on a small cabinet organ, but also played some music on the beautiful choir organ hanging like a bird's nest against the wall at the intersection of the aisles.
The choir organ, Amsterdam
The musicians and the cabinet organ
It was all music by Dutch composers, old masters of Amsterdam, Schop, Schenck and Peterson. The best known amongst them Sweelinck, who was an organist in this church, the "Oude Kerk" in the middle of the red light district. Sweelinck was also buried here and there is a bust and a plaque to memorise him next to his grave.
Sweelinck
It is such a shame that this church in one of the most characteristic historic parts of Amsterdam should be surrounded by "windows". I don't see why they have to be around the church. Several of the rooms built against the church and opening into the church, have been restored to their former glory and are open to visitors. One of them is now a modest coffee shop for visitors of the church only, which opens to a small "garden" or rather courtyard and is very romantic. From here one has a view of one of the canals and a canal bridge, fortunately not of the "windows". It is such a joy to hear and see such young and brilliant musicians who are dedicated to their music in spite of the negative attitude of the government when it comes to stimulating musical life and talent in Holland, and culture in general.
The main organ in the "Oude Kerk", Amsterdam
One of the adjacent rooms open to the public and restored
Below: The coffeeshop taken from the tiny patio garden
One of the misericords. Mostly they were hidden under the seat. Just as well.
Parties
On the days in between the concerts there were
two parties: an end of season party for our choir with a bring and share meal
at the home of one of the choir members. We were lucky as it was a warm evening
and we could spill out into the garden.
The food was delicious, the atmosphere good. It is always a nice
surprise to sample the baking and cooking of the members of our multicultural choir.
Alas, we had to say goodbye to two choir members, both young and gifted
musicians who, apart from singing in the choir, on many an occasion had given
their musical talents to the church playing the violin and the cello.
Another party was our annual street BBQ. This
time it took place in the garden of one of our neighbours. Party tents had been
erected just in case, but we were lucky with a very balmy evening and so sat
outside till midnight. It is such a nice happening that former neighbours often
join in as well, even one who lives in Germany, as well as children who grew up
in this street, – now adults and parents themselves, bringing their children in
turn.
I did a lot of baking: quiches, two different
ones, and a variation on tiramisu with chocolate, crême de cassis and fresh strawberries.
The latter was a great success fortunately, as I had just improvised and not
tasted it beforehand.
Beach walks
This week included a day with a former
colleague who lives up north, at Petten on the coast, near a nuclear plant. We
had a long and cold walk along the beach, and a very nice and prolonged lunch
in a beach club. There we were protected against the cold wind and enjoyed the
sun, so we were rather reluctant to walk back, especially when the sun decided
to call it a day and hid behind very thick clouds. Therefore we decided to return
through the dunes which offered at least some protection against the cold wind.
Two evenings ago after a warm day I also went
for a two hour walk along the beach near my home. That too was a far colder
experience than I expected because of the still strong wind from the north.
Fortunately I had taken precautions and brought a much needed sweater. Because
of the weather the beach was empty as soon as I left the access to the beach
behind me and started walking south. Tide was just going out and each grain of
hard sand was glittering like a miniscule diamond in the late sunlight. The
beach was as new, rippled by the tide, my footprints the first and only ones which
I could still trace undisturbed on my way back. The seagulls were quite
indignant that after a day with beach lovers they were disturbed again by this lonely
walker. They flew up, spread their wings, circled lazily and waited till I had
passed to land again in the exact same spot where they roosted and went on cleaning
their ruffled feathers.
Family and nature
On Sunday I drove to Drenthe for my sister's
birthday, a special birthday. As she had
her leg in plaster - bright red because she thought white a bit dull – some
distraction was very welcome. It was a warm day and we sat out in the garden. I
tried to get to her village via minor roads, but was often thwarted by road works
and closed crossroads, also on the way back when I had this vision of a red
setting sun over wide open fields smelling of freshly mown grasslands. I
managed to drive through the heath land near my sister's home, - a detour which
I can never resist to make. There has always been moorland in this part of the
country, but they – the government? - are extending it by buying up farmland
and farmers and returning their lands to what they think is its natural state.
It is true that Drenthe was wild and full of moorland which was impassable. That
land was gradually either planted with trees and so made into woodland, or
cultivated and fertilized and made into agricultural land. Potatoes are the
main crop here. Now fields are made into "wild" country again. I think
it must be very painful to give land back to "nature" that one has
painstakingly cultivated and made fertile with great effort and hard labour.
And this is not the only part of Holland where that happens. Much of our
farmland is turned into "original" nature, with cows grazing there
imported from the Scottish highlands. I do not see what is authentic about
that. Or the land is turned into golf courses. Anyway, the late evening light
on the rather desolate heath in Drenthe is worth a detour and the emptiness
attracts me. The sun hadn't set yet, so no red light on the pools and the white
plumes of the reeds. But nevertheless that land always has something mysterious
hovering over it, something ghostly.
The week started cold and ended cold, although
most highlights were blessed with better summer weather. Let's hope there is
some more summer to come!
As ever, your writing is much enjoyed by me. Returning agricultural lands to "the natural grassland of Scotland" removes land from producing much needed food production. Perhaps the Netherlands doesn't have a viable agriculture any more. Perhaps all farmers have moved away to Canada so there's no one to tend the fields? Perhaps this is mere misdirected political thinking.
ReplyDeleteThe water lilies are magnificent. Enjoy the blooms while they last.