Day 8, back home

Chartres-home

The next morning we venture into Chartres. It would have been easier if we had approached it from the side of Evreux, but we didn't and so I have a hard time finding my way and a parking space. But we manage in the end.

I remember Chartres cathedral as very dark, mysterious because of it. The vividly multicoloured stained glass windows immediately draw one's attention. This time, so many years later, the cathedral seems to be different. The exterior is still imposing, dark with wonderful sculptures over the doors in the tympani: Christ the King sitting in glory on his throne. The doors are flanked by elongated figures, disciples, evangelists. 

The elongated sculptures at the west portal 

The west front is truly fascinating and I could spend hours trying to decipher the whole story depicted in stone. Inside it is a different matter. The nave is still dark, but the choir is in total contrast with it. It has been cleaned and restored to what one thinks it must have looked like when the cathedral was built centuries ago. Whenever that was, for it took a long time to actually finish it. Also the pillars are painted in a pastel yellowish pattern, which to me looks more Victorian then medieval. Because the pillars are only painted up to the architraves, it breaks the upward flowing line, the height of the gothic arches so reminiscent of hands folded in prayer. It is claimed that that pattern was found on one of the pillars and is original. As the choir is now so light, the stained glass windows seem less striking.  

 I read that the intention is to clean the nave as well. For me the mysterious atmosphere has disappeared with the layers of dust and soot. And with that the memories of the faithful, who for centuries have said their prayers here, seeking refuge or comfort. Their prayers clung to the pillars. In the darkness of the cathedral I could hear their praise and thanksgiving, their agonies, their supplications, whispering along the walls, embedded in this sacred building.

The restored choir

Fortunately the beautiful sculptures around the choir, the new testament in exquisitely carved stone tableaux, is still there. I could spend a whole day looking at them.

The statue of Mary behind the high altar

         What I also find odd is that behind the altar there is no image of Christ or a crucifix except for a very small one, but only a statue of Mary which virtually dwarfs the crucifix. More baroque than medieval, not the shy handmaiden, the virgin, but a very sexual Mary, almost in ecstasy. Mary was a means, not an end, but the emphasis is not on Christ. The whole cathedral seems only to focus on Mary, in spite of the sculpture over the main entrance where Christ reigns in glory. There is the black Madonna as well , and the veil of Mary, a relic.

The labyrinth

         And there is the labyrinth, inlaid in the stone floor just behind the west front, the main entrance. Labyrinths were not uncommon in medieval cathedrals, but in fact pagan symbols which were adapted by the church and given a religious meaning. For ages no attention was given to the labyrinths. Often they were removed, but in Chartres that was too expensive so they were hidden from view by putting chairs and pews on them. The rise of the New Age Movement in California in the nineties has aroused a new interest in those labyrinths. Here, in Chartres, many people are silently walking the labyrinth, slowly, step by step, meditating. It is peculiar that in a time that churches empty out and religion is no longer part of everybody's life, there should be a revival of such symbols which are in the end pagan symbols and were adopted by the church probably to attract people, like the Christmas tree which has little to do with the birth of Christ. To me it feels as if in this cathedral Christ isn't the focus, but a blacker, almost pagan mysticism. It is perhaps an ode to Mary, Mary as the goddess of fertility, the bearer of life representative of all women, a rather pagan concept. It does not give me a spiritual uplift at all, in spite of its beauty, the splendour of the windows, the awe inspiring arches pointing towards heaven, the biblical message made visible through the phenomenal sculptures round the choir. Nevertheless Chartres is still the ultimate example  of a gothic cathedral.

 The wonderful sculptures around the back of the choir

 A street in the old town

 The house of the salmon with the carved beams

 

A sign for the pilgrims to pint them in the right direction

         In spite of the perfection of the cathedral, a basilica we discover by chance impresses me more. Because of our policy to avoid the main roads as much as possible, we happen to drive through Gisors, just on the eastern border of Normandy. To our surprise we find a fine Gothic Church, with gargoyles standing out far from the gutters, beautifully carved portals and a splendid interior. Many of the sculptures outside are vandalised or just eroded. 

 Gisors: the church of St, Gervais and St. Protais

 

Inside the atmosphere is serene. We are the only tourists. Apart from us, there is nobody. Here too beautiful stained glass windows, amongst which a modern one with fields of grain rippling in the wind, very appropriate for this agricultural area. Some of the pillars are intricately sculpted. The large pipe organ seems new. I presume this church is still used regularly. 

 A side chapel at Gisors

There is a side chapel , decorated in striking blue and gold, and a multicoloured frieze telling a bible story. The gothic nave seems to reach to the heavens. Here I can say my prayers, here one can humbly address God.

A modern window

 ...and an old one

Outside cars are parked almost to the doors of the cathedral. This is how I remember Chartres, decades ago. We then just parked the car next to the cathedral.

Gisors: The castle and a view of the church from the castle grounds

In Gisors we also find remnants of a city wall and fortifications. But we have to move on, and drive in the direction of Amiens, again via byroads. However, this takes so much time that we decide to forget Amiens and take the péage – the toll road - from here so that we can be home just before midnight.

There are many reasons to return and explore all those places we have missed or only seen superficially. Perhaps part of the itinerary of my friend's future pilgrimage? Pilgrimage or not, company or not, I at least will go back one day to discover and savour more.