Dordrecht

A day out in Dordrecht, the oldest city in Holland. Walled, moated and gated at one time, now only two gates are left, and there is water, even in abundance.

Why Dordrecht? Too many reasons to list:

-  not to let my free train travel ticket expire

-  To see an exhibition,

-  to attend an organ recital.

-  last but not least, although there might not be enough time to do it all, to see the choir stalls in the old church, a church painted and photographed by so many through the centuries.

Old houses near the Museum

Since we celebrate the fact that the Netherlands became a kingdom 200 years ago, there are events and exhibitions everywhere, mainly about the first three kings: William I, II, and III. The exhibition in Dordrecht was about William II, who married Anna Paulowna, a sister of Tsar Nicholas I of Russia, and a lover of art, as was William. He collected paintings and objects of art. His paintings and parts of his art collection were exhibited in the Museum of Dordrecht, a former monastery. Many pieces of art came from St Petersburg where they ended up after Wlliam’s death. He left huge debts, and so his collection was sold to museum in various countries.

Celebrating 200 years 

The back of the Augustinian church...

...and the houses opposite

Another part of the exhibition presents the visitors with a history of William and Anna’s life together, the palaces they built, their lavish life style, and especially Williams history, connected with the Battle of Waterloo in which William fought as well. After that battle in which he was wounded, he was hailed as the hero of Waterloo, at least in the Netherlands.

The organ recital was in a historic church as well, the Augustijner Kerk (Augustinian church). The programme presented us with “royal” music: music played at courts throughout Europe, courts which were connected with the Dutch court, and music of famous musicians who played at court in The Hague.

Seeing friends, starting the day having coffee with them, spending time together in the Museum and meeting again at the organ recital was good.

 Organ and interior of the Augustinian Church

Dordrecht was quite an experience. As mentioned before it has been painted by many artists because of its dominant position on the busiest European intersection of several main rivers and waterways. The main church with its stump tower is a very impressive landmark. Paintings and later photos are always taken from across the wide expanse of the rivers. It is as if the church rises out of the water, sitting on its surface. Dordrecht used to be a very important staple town, and the names of the numerous old warehouses remind us of that time of prosperity: Russia, German princedoms, English place names. 

 Some gable stones

The historic harbour with old steamers, still in working order but no longer used for freight, the many canals, and beautiful gables of the houses of the VIPs, the ship owners, patricians and other wealthy and influential people, are worth seeing and testimony of a rich past.  

 The historic harbour. Below, a very grand warehouse

There is however a “but”. Although Dordrecht was mainly spared during the war and not bombed as so many other cities, unlike Rotterdam its heart was still intact. A heart consisting of small and characteristic houses, alleys and tiny squares. But that heart was nonetheless ripped out wilfully in the name of progress and replaced by an intersection of several wide pedestrian streets lined with shops behind modern facades, the kind of shops which can be found anywhere in the Netherlands. The streets are very clean and very neat but have no character whatsoever. It could be anywhere. During the day the streets were bustling with people, and a big street market was in full swing which lent it some character with its varied display of fresh fruits and vegetables, all kinds of fish, cheeses, and cured meats. But in the evening after closing time the streets were empty and deserted, except for the cleaners in their vehicles, cleansing the smooth pavement of any nasty smells of rotting fruit and fish, disinfecting them more or less. No heart, no people enjoying drinks in small establishments. 

 Looking into and out of the city through one of the gates

 The "main" gate, the entrance from the river crossing

 Around this emptiness, this neat black hole, there are still many old streets, squares, gateways under houses leading to a canal, steps down towards the water, house fronts leaning over, beautifully decorated gables and sky lights over the front doors. Even the modest old houses look nice. Apparently they were built with love and care. Walking towards the main gate giving access to the river and wide vistas, big ships coming, going and crossing, I see most interesting houses, gable stones, inscriptions. Dordrecht had many religious houses, and also for protestants it is of historic importance.

  The main church and the canal 

We had time to visit the main church. On one side it is flanked by a canal, the houses opposite built with their feet in the water, occasional staircases giving access to cellars or the streets on the other side of the houses. Beech trees line the canal and the green around the church, the young and just unfolding leaves a very bright and translucent green and coppery red, sunlight shining through them. Inside the church is light and spacious, the choir almost as long as the nave of the church. To me the big pipe organ and the choir stalls are the most interesting parts of this church. 

The choir screen made of brass

Two exanples of misericords

 The frieze in the choir stalls

 The beautifully decorated choir stalls

 The stall ends

The pulpit

 

 The main pipe organ

 

Especially the choir stalls are unusual. They have misericords which seem rather medieval like so many others elsewhere, and are also badly defaced, which isn’t unusual either although a great shame. But all along the choir stalls is a very beautiful frieze, sculpted in wood. It is a wide one over the seats with representations of what seem to be Roman or Greek battles. They are beautifully made and well preserved. They are in a neo classical style, which forms a contrast with the stalls and their misericords. I have only 45 minutes to look around the church, so there is no time for a closer examination. There is a splendid book about the choir stalls and its sculptures, and in the nick of time I buy it when the kiosk is already closed. But the ladies who are on duty are still around and only too happy to sell me this book.

With my treasure, which I accidentally leave in a restaurant so that I have to walk all the way back from the station to the other side of Dordrecht to retrieve it, we set out to explore the old part of Dordrecht, the harbour, canals, city gates and old houses, ending up at the uttermost point where we can enjoy a drink and some food while basking in the sun and watching the many huge cargo ships pass by. And here we end our day, very happy and content, till we discover I have forgotten my book!

  Along a quiet canal, and another view of the church

I should go back one day, to explore Dordrecht in more detail.

It was a memorable day, and although I did not get my money’s worth out of my free ticket as Dordrecht is only an hour away on the train, it was certainly worth it.

 Some impressive houses and front doors

 

One of many gateways