Amersfoort, Bach Day

A day of free railway travel, a day full of classical music, and a historic town centre, what more can one wish for? And apart from the evening concert the music was free!

The day started out foggy, turning into sunny and rather warm.  Train travel is soothing in a way. No responsibility, a chance to watch the world go by. And this time the world looked better than usual as high rise buildings and building sites in the distance were blurred because of the fog.

In Amersfoort I could enjoy Bach non-stop, the different concerts even overlapping so it was hard to choose. An extra bonus was that the recitals and concerts took place on locations which are normally closed to the public: in many churches such as the Old Catholic Church, the Roman Catholic St. Xaverius, the Lutheran Church, a PKN protestant church, but also historic chapels no longer in use as such. 

 The "Mannenzaal"

 Old photos of the men who lived here

The location I liked most of all was the “Men’s Ward”, a medieval old men’s home, also at times a hospital. Many towns used to have such places for the poor and the sick, called “gasthuizen”, but this one is the only medieval one left in Europe. A small chapel is attached to it. Part of the larger complex it once was, was destroyed and broken down, but this ward is a gem. It can now be rented for functions: small dinner parties, receptions and concerts. Today there were concerts, chamber music, the audiences flanked on both sides by the old men’s beds and chamber pots.

The small chapel of the "Mannenzaal"

Another interesting thing was that in the smaller locations only a few musicians would perform. They were mostly semi-professionals or professionals, from in or around Amersfoort, so known locally. They would play Bach on instruments for which the compositions were not originally written. It was fun hearing a composition which I was familiar with performed by a totally different group of instrumentalists.  Concerts with choirs and more instrumentalists were given in the bigger churches: the St. Xaverius and the St. Joris (George), the main church in the Market Square. The organisers had been very creative. There were canal trips on open boats with accordion players playing Bach! The tower, the Lange Jan (Long John) has a carillon which played Bach every half hour, scattering their notes over the Saturday shoppers who were not aware of this special day. The bookshop hosted lectures about Bach, as did the Lutheran church which was too small for a recital.

 The main pipe organ in the St.Joris Church, the main church in the Market Square

 Below: The organ as seen from the stone rood screen separating the chancel from the nave 

The rood screen looking towards the chancel

The smallest of the two organs in the chancel, which is used as a separate chapel and was also used for concerts during this special day

The highlight for me was the main church with the magnificent pipe organ. Here one of the best known Dutch organists, in fact the father of the famous violinist Janine Jansen, played six choral preludes by J.S.Bach. The other two organs were played as well on this day, but for me the highlight was the recital on the main organ. In the church 4 small girls in tutu’s danced on the music of Das Wohltemperierte Klavier. They did well and were totally concentrated on what they were doing.

The chapel of the "Mannenzaal". The "zaal" is hidden behind the chapel

Amersfoort is an attractive city. The city walls are formed by the back of a closed ring of houses. Three city gates are still intact, one of them a water gate, allowing access to the river Eem. I think only Sneek in Friesland can boast of a water gate.

The Water Gate

The narrow streets, the houses forming the city wall and the houses along the canal are very picturesque. Alas, there was too little time to see everything. Besides in the afternoon the heavens opened and it poured down for hours on end.

 The historical Museum, "Flehite"

In the evening there was a concert in the St Joris church to close off this remarkable and most enjoyable day. However, after hours of Bach and still having to travel home, I called it a day and watched the sunset from the train window, which got me home just before dark.

 The "Muurhuizen", the houses forming the city wall

 

This can only be in Holland

After a quick meal I went out again to a nearby village for another organ recital, this time by an organist friend. Not Bach, but a mixture of composers and compositions. Anyway, enough music in one day to last me the rest of the week.